Friday 5 September - Whitby and the North York Moors Railway

The double deck Coastliner bus took us directly to Whitby. We travelled via Malton and Pickering. The grain has been harvested and the hay made into very large bales. One of the problems at this time of year is the tractors that move large trailers of hay at slow speeds on the highway. We were delayed several times through this yet the bus was able to keep to the timetable throughout the two hour plus journey. At one point we made a detour to serve Flamingoland. We passed over a narrow stream along which two swans were taking three cygnets.  One white bird, one bringing up tgecrear and three brown grey birds in between. The stream was not more than a metre wide. It was misty in places and a thick fog developed as we climbed up to pass over the North York Moors. There were extensive patches of purple heather in which could be seen grazing sheep, many with curved horns. Over the moors the sheep grazed along the unfenced road. There were a few dry stone walls but mostly hedges to mark boundaries. Going along the high moorland roads in thick fog produced an atmosphere suitable for Bram Stoker (who wrote Frankenstein in Whitby) or the Hound of the Baskervilles.

The Magpie is a white building just right of centre

At Whitby we crossed the bridge to wander through the narrow cobbled streets. We were particularly taken with one place unusually named Arguments Yard. 

 

Returning across the bridge we were delayed as the span was opened to allow three yachts to exit the inner harbour. As expected, there was a preponderance of fish and chip shops, rock shops, ice cream vendors, pubs and amusement arcades.  We were taken with the Den of Antiquity. We had been recommended to try the Magpie which turned out to be an excellent fish restaurant. Not only did they serve superlative fish and chips but they had a very wide selection of fish and seafood and were skilled at preparation other than deep frying.

I started with a Whitby Kipper.  The bread and butter and strawberry were provided to cleanse the palate.

Mary started with an excellent plate of scallops

A six wheele3d Sentinel steam bus was giving rides around the town.

Nobody was in the water which even looked cold for paddling.

Whitby is a working port

There was time for a short walk to the sea wall and then we returned to the station to catch the train to Pickering. The NYMR has been running into Whitby for a couple of years now but the new platform and run round loop has only been in use for two weeks. There is a need to sort out the crowd control as the man technically in charge had no idea. Our train of old blood and spilt milk cars was scruffy and in need of a good clean. It was hauled by a Stanier class five. The route is pleasant enough but the ride was slow with a number of unexplained pauses. We saw several pheasants and although the line runs through the moors they are completely hidden because it is in a valley. The bus is a much better moors experience.

Stanier Black Five 45428 at Pickering

Click here to see all pictures taken at Whitby and Pickering
At Pickering we made our way to the Coastliner bus stop where we found two Australians and two Americans and a discussion ensued over the time of the next bus to York. They felt that the bus would arrive in two minutes but I pointed out that as it was a school day the bus had already left and we would have to wait an hour for the next one. We went into the nearby Royal Oak where the barmaid admitted that she had given wrong information as she had forgotten about schooldays.

The bus shelter was conveniently located close to the Royal Oak

John Smith's was excellent

The wait wasn't too much of a problem as we just bought a drink and sat in the bar where we had a long discussion with a 73 year old local who had had two strokes and a triple by pass.  "If you rest you rust".

While waiting for the bus we were observed from a room above the supermarket across the road

The bus arrived at the time I predicted and brought us back just after 6 o'clock. It was a good day but there was a lot of travelling just to spend a few hours on the coast.

This evening we tried a new pub, the Black Swan. It is just a short way away from the tourist area that it had mainly local people. The bar was pleasant and I enjoyed a Timothy Taylors Landlord.

Thursday 4 September - York Minster and the Stinking Bishop

View of the Minster in the morning sun

After the last couple of days we decided to stay around town today. 

After a full English breakfast with Fullers London Pride at the Old White Swan we went to the Minster. We spent some time and did a tour. The Chapter House was very impressive but the whole building is looking well and the tour guide was enthusiastic about the work that is being done.

Ceiling of the east transept

The centre of the ceiling of the Chapter House

This stone carving was above the Dean's seat in the Chapter House. One way the workmen could poke fun at their masters.

The Treasurers House is a National Trust property close by. It was bequeathed to the nation in the 1930s as a going concern. There is an impressive Grand Hall and the house was worth a visit - our Canadian memberships gave us free admission.

There was a short pause at the Hole in the Wall where I sampled a very passable bitter from Mansfield.

 

This beautifully restored and painted stone carving was at Petergate, part of the University of York

We walked through the museum gardens and sat for a while on the river bank.There were a lot of noisy ducks washing in the river then they all came out and hunkered down along the footpath. A couple of fishermen had a number of bites and one landed a fish almost two feet long.

Walking back to the apartment I bought some Stinking Bishop cheese. This is reputed to be the smelliest cheese in Yorkshire. It wasn't very stinky, not compared to an Epoisse or a ripe Roquefort, but it had a good flavour and a very smooth creamy texture under the brown, crusty rind.

Wednesday 3 September - Visiting with Colin Bishop at Skipton

We took the train from York to Leeds and changed for Skipton. There was mass confusion at York because the car letter was not marked. We had reservations in car C but went through car B and on to A before finding the right car. What an unnecessary cock up. After Leeds the country became interesting with dry stone walls, sheep, cattle, canals etc.

We met Colin as planned, he had driven over from his home near Carnforth. We walked a lot and chatted a lot. First order of business was coffee, then the street market. 

Dogs not included

Skipton is a pretty lively place. A market is held in the High Street four times a week and it was packed. We shared a very hot chili pork pie as an appetizer which destroyed my taste buds for at least half an hour.
Lunch was at an excellent Fish and Chip Restaurant. The jumbo haddock was truly jumbo and beautifully battered. I had chips and Mary had an excellent salad. 

 

The canal provided a good way to walk off lunch. The canal is well used and there were flotillas of ducks and a few swans. Duck food was being sold on the towpath and was much appreciated by the waterfowl.

 

There was time for a drink - Timothy Taylors Boltmaker was a strong bitter with a hint of molasses. I enjoyed it but prefer Timothy Taylors Landlord.
Click here to see all pictures taken at Skipton
We then made our way back to the station and caught a train earlier than intended. It allowed us to return from Leeds on the earlier Cross Country train to Dundee. I am sure this was better than waiting for the Northern train which would have been crowded and probably unmarked.

On the train from Skipton the most amazing old man sat opposite me from Bingley. He was short and well dressed with a green tweed three buttoned suit and waist coat. His cream shirt had an elaborate gold pattern with cuff links and a tie which matched his suit. The flat cloth cap also matched his suit and he carried a cane with a gold (or brass) handle. He squinted through thick bottle glass spectacles. A living example of the cat's pajamas. If this wasn't enough, every minute or so he would get out his upper plate with his tongue, wave it around at all and sundry and then re-insert it. A good reason why I find public transport so appealing.

Tuesday 2 September - Beverley and Pocklington

With day rover tickets we set out for Beverley. The bus, which went to Hull, went through Pocklington and Market Weighton which we scouted out as possible places to visit on the way back.

Once again the bus destination board did not agree with the timetable or the electronic board at the bus stop. We have learned to ask the driver before each trip. The Yorkshire Wolds are fairly flat with the occasional hill.  The farming is mixed. The grain is being harvested and some fields are being plowed - the plow is followed by a lot of birds looking for grubs etc.

Beverley is a pleasant village with lots of shopping potential. There is a good pedestrian area but the main square gives the feel of a car park with some interesting buildings spread around the perimeter. The lady in the tourist office was very helpful. She steered me to some good beer and also recommended that we stop off at Pocklington on our return. 

 

Fortified with a Greene King IPA we took a look at the minster which is light as well as large. 

The Hull area, including Beverley, is the only part of the country where phone boxes are painted cream instead of red

 

A quick dark mild at the White Horse revealed a dark pub with a maze of many rooms. It was a nice change to find a mild beer.

As suggested, we decided to go on to Pocklington which had an interesting street market today. On the way wepassed by the Beverley race track, there were cattle grazing on either side of the unfenced main road.  Both Beverly and Pockligton are gliding centres and we saw several in the air at both places. The Burnby Hall Gardens are very close to the centre of Pocklington and we spent a peaceful time there. There is a large lake filled with water lillies. The lawns are well manicured and we were surprised at the number and size of the carp. People buy food for them and they know the drill. The air was rent with the splashing of the frequent feeding frenzies.  There is also a wooded area called the Stumpery. This is similar to a rockery but old tree stumps have been used, some carved with demonic faces. Sitting in a calm area we were disturbed by a gurgling and rustling of the fish under the water lilly leaves. The gardens were well worth a visit. 

 

 

The Stumpery

 

The bus was on time and brought us back close to the Shambles.
Click here to see all pictures taken at Beverley and Pocklington

An Indian (Goan) meal was excellent and I had a Bradfied Brewery (Sheffield) Farmers Bitter which was not to my taste, it was dark, not very bitter and had a touch of molasses.

Monday 1 September - Castle Howard

The best time to see our street is early in the morning or late at night.

Getting there can be half the fun and it was certainly the case with the bus to Castle Howard. The timetable and maps clearly marked a 180 route Stephenson's of Easingwold bus.  A couple of minutes before time a Stephenson's route 183 bus to Malton turned up.  The driver opened the doors and started to chat. After a minute or so he pointed out that this was in fact the 180 but "they had cocked it up" so that the destination board couldn't show 180 to Castle Howard but only 183 which it became at Castle Howard for Malton. So we made the bus by sheer happenstance.

The timetable allowed 1 hour 23 minutes for the journey which was only 15 miles so it was by no means direct and called in at many small villages on the way. There were only a couple of people other than us. At one point we entered a small hamlet and passed an old couple on the other side of the road. The bus went 100 metres further, did a three point turn, picked them up and left the  village. They both smiled at us and said "Good morning" as they took their seats. We passed a sign for pig racing. That sounds interesting. I wonder if they have jockeys or if they are free range pigs?

We finally came to a cross roads where we could see Castle Howard for the first time but the bus turned away and went into another village where a three point turn was required before retracing our route to the crossroads and our destination. 

There is a sizeable discount on entry by showing our bus tickets. In fact it cost less to get in Castle Howard than the bus fare.

We first visited the house which is huge. It contains some interesting items but many areas are badly in need of restoration or renewal. As a museum it is good, as a house it is dark and mostly dingy.

  

Mad Hatters Tea Party

 

The grounds are pleasant and there is much good walking. The clouds were threatening most of the day with the occasional sunny break. There are several lakes and care has been taken to maintain their natural appearance. We had a snack at the Boat House on a deck set out over the water where ducks and swans cruised around looking for handouts.

 

 

Click here to see all pictures taken at Castle Howard
Coming back, the buses from Malton and York arrived together and we made very sure that we were on the right bus. The indicator did show 180 and we followed the same route back - with the same passengers.

This is a difficult picture to take because there are always cars in the way during the day - this is just across from the Minster.

I tried a Skipton beer this evening.  Quite pleasant with a good but not overpowering flavor of hops.

Sunday 31 August - Bettys, pickled onions and more

We came back to the apartment this morning to find the paramedics attending to a young guy who had fallen over. There was blood all over the door step. 

 

Today we had Champagne Afternoon Tea at Bettys using a voucher Mary Burges so kindly gave us. Everything was splendid. The serving staff were all very good and the tea was excellent.

The room is decorated in the same manner as the Queen Mary, the owner travelled on the maiden voyage and was so impressed that he decided to fashion the room similarly.

 

After the champagne Mary had Bettys Afternoon Tea while I had the Darjeeling Afternoon Tea. There was a huge selection of teas. These were served with four different types of sandwich, I preferred the ham and mustard, then scones, clotted cream and strawberry jam. To finish off there were some excellent pastries.

 

 

I then went to the Railway Museum. Mallard is now sandwiched between two good engines, 2500 and 737.

Click here to see all pictures taken at the National Railway Museum
One the way back I spent a little time at the station talking to the Assistant Station Manager. Although she is not wearing safety shoes she may go on to the track in an emergency.

The Blue Bell served up a dark treackly beer called Dave. Not bad. It is brewed at Great Heck from rock treacle from the Great Heck treacle mine.

 

I found a jar of pickled onions and some Stilton at Marks and Spencers.  Nanna Churcher liked these. Trouble was she only had one tooth of her own and didn't like using her false teeth. She would take in a pickled onion and chase it round her gums for several minutes before she succeeded in spearing it.

It turned into a lovely evening and the light was particularly good on the Minster and many other buildings.