Tuesday 25 November - Monceau and Square des Batignolles

From Today's Ottawa Citizen

Off to a slow start this morning so we left the apartment around lunch time. Paris isn't ready for Christmas yet. There are few decorations and there is a marked absence of heavily armed military with automatic weapons in the high traffic areas. Lenôtre had a good display of very expensive delicacies - chocolates were €115 per kilo and some of the pastries were beautiful.
Monceau parc had a good deal of color still, the green grass contrasted nicely with the yellows and browns of the leaves. Being lunchtime the school children were out playing in the park under strict supervision, each kid wore an identifying arm band.

Lunch time at Parc Monceau

We had lunch at a 1930s retro restaurant at Place des Ternes. The food was good (huitres, onion soupe gratinee/magret de canard/smoked salmon with choucrout) but the waiter politely padded the bill so we politely asked him to correct it.
The city road sweepers were out in force along the Boulevard des Courcelles. They were blowing the leaves into piles and up ladies skirts when they could get away with it.

Diva et Chocolats is my favorite boulangerie/patisserie

The Square des Batignolles is always pleasant although much smaller than Monceau. The plane trees have been badly hit by a fungus and several have had to be severely cut back. This is a great pity as one, at least, was planted there in 1840.

Signature Tree at Square des Batignolles

Monceau

Monday 24 November - Errands

I had a number of things to do today while Mary went to the Pompidou Centre. At Saint Lazare I bought the tickets for a trip with Brian to Romorantin and Valençay on Friday. I have always had to do this with the help of an SNCF agent because it involves another railway (the Blanc a Argent).  Alice, the agent, came from Orleans, and couldn't have been more helpful. She managed to get the seniors' discount for part and it turns out that first class on the TGV from St. Pierre des Corps is cheaper than second class.
I visited the Gare de Lyon to reserve a table at Le Train Bleu because I like that station and because I wanted to ensure they were going to be open following their renovation.
A good lesson in how to behave on public transport. I wanted to board the no. 14 metro at Gare de Lyon. I was standing at the front door of the barrier with some 40 others. The train came in already very crowded but many wanted to get off. The crowd on the platform parted to let some 30 or 40 off then we all moved in. I didn't get a seat because those in first sat down to make room for the standees.  The whole procedure took 30 seconds or so. Contrast this to the DFs with backpacks who ride OC Transpo. They will stand looking at several empty seats while blocking the exit. On this trip I had an advantage by standing because I could look out of the front of this driverless train and silently call signals. I had to take a seat when one became available at Chatelet but the view was not so good.
The one disappointment of the day was to find the model railway shop on rue de Réamur has closed.
On rue de Saussure I saw what looked like a one wheeled Segway. It had a small platform either side of the wheel and a small protrusion to be gripped by the knees - Solowheel. It was similar to the picture shown below.

Sunday 23 November - Le Grand Colbert and Asteryx

We went to Le Grand Colbert for lunch and to make a reservation for Chrustmas Day. The jardins du Palais Royal were very pleasant in the warm sun and the fountain was still playing. 

The Jardins du Palais Royal are larger than they seem.  There was a pickup game of soccer taking place among the trees on each side

There are two Wallace foutains in the Jardins used by the kids playing soccer.

There is an interesting piece of artwork next door which is constructed of different sized columns. Today was ride your horse in downtown Paris day and the rue de Rivoli was blocked for some time while horsedrawn carriages and single riders crossed. The car horns signaled their displeasure.

Believe it or not this is a starter. All you can eat pickled herring and boiled potatoes

As usual Le Grand Colbert was excellent. Of course, Mary had the enormous pot of pickled herring followed by veal piccata. I started with a terrine and followed this with kidneys.
We had some time to spare to get to the new Asteryx movie at Place de Clichy. The window displays at Le Printemps and Les Galleries Lafayette were running and there were a fair number of visitors. The hot chestnut sellers were out in force placing their equipment where it would slow down the crowds for their pickpocket companions. The gold decorations on Le Printemps shone brilliantly in the low afternoon sun.
We then moved in through the confusing area of St. Georges where you need to consult a street map every half block to avoid becoming hopelessly lost. The Asteryx movie was good but a little difficult to understand. The kids loved it but the 3D glasses didn't seem to be very effective.

Saturday 22 November - Paris - same old, same old

More coffee mugs. Hidden among the Christmas stuff in Monoprix were some nice coffee mugs of several different colours.  Guess Mary will have to find room for these when we get back home

 Although it has been a year since we were here it is gratifying to realize that what we really like about Parus has not changed. The large number of small businesses whether they be patissier, fromager, droguerie, charcutier, épicier etc. In each it is a delight to speak to the shop assistants. In Monoprix the middle aged lady cashier remarked that I was just along to carry the merchandise. While Mary was paying she gave me a delightful smile with a come-on wink. No wonder we like coming back.
We first went to the Batignoles organic market which is held Saturday mornings. As expected, the range and choice was exceptional. There were long line ups at certain stalls, obviously there are a lot of regulars. One man was selling black truffles, carefully weighing each one.

Even these old locomotives don't change. These 1960s vintage locomotives are being replaced by new multiple unit trains but there are still a few running around such as this one at Saint Lazare..

We found Aux Isles Marquises to be closed for lunch but later Madame confirmed our reservation for New Year's Eve over the phone. Lunch was at Le Miroir. Magret de Canard and cod, both very good.
We sauntered back to the apartment along rue des Abbesses, rue Lepic, Square de Clichy and rue des Dames. Nothing special to note except people were doing the things they have always done. Most restaurants had tables outside, many were tasting the Beaujolais Nouveau. No Christmas decorations yet. The rue des Dames hasn't been the same since a couple of years ago when an independent bookshop took over a place selling bric à brac - the shop window was filled by a bath with a woman lying in it with her wrists cut. There was lots of blood for a gruesome effect.

Maybe this should be captioned "Ride in Pieces"

I went through the Square des Batignoles late afternoon. The old ladies were sitting on the benches looking at the ducks while the men, and one woman, were playing pétanque or gambling.
I wandered along to the permanent Batignoles Covered Market to find some duck pâté en crout. The male server cut and wrapped my purchase but pointed to the lady clerk who took my money while making eye contact and giving me a ravishing smile. It is very satisfying to see the things we like are just the same.

Friday 21 November - Arrival in Paris

As usual, the worst part of the journey to Paris was OC Transpo #97 bus to the airport - crowded and so noisy the announcements were inaudible.
Air Canada got us to Paris via Toronto on the advertised.  The pilot was silent. We waited at the gate in Toronto for about 40 minutes beyond the departure time with no explanation whatsoever. They said the flying time was a little over 6 hours so I assume this was to ensure we didn't arrive before time.
Its a balmy day here with some sunny breaks. The grass is green and there are still some keaves on the trees.
The first order of business was lunch at the Bistrot D'Id, a local restaurant which always seems to be busy. Mary had scallops while I had magret de canard. Both were well cooked and well presented. However the Sancerre and Valençay red were both a bit rough, hardly surprising in this case.
We then had to get in supplies for our stay. Monoprix is being renovated so there is much less room. The fruit and vegetables are being sold on the street outside.
I bought a bottle of Oban scotch which is relatively cheap here. It is difficult to find at times in Ottawa.
It was also good to renew acquaintances with the lady with the infectious smile who runs Diva et Chocolats with her husband who is the patissier.  Just cutting into one  of her baguettes forestiere releases an amazing odour. You don't even have to taste it before enjoying it.

Sunday 12 October - London to Ottawa

I had plenty of time to get to Heathrow and admire the new terminal. It is very easy to get through and there is plenty of room in the circulating areas. I intended to get a cappuccino but passed a Fullers restaurant so I had smoked salmon and eggs with a pint of London Pride. A great way to finish a wonderful trip. JFB.

I was sucked into a half full Air Canada flight in London and blown out at Ottawa, some 15 minutes early after a very relaxed flight.

Saturday 11 October - Geneva to London

We used our Swiss Pass to get from Neuchatel to Geneva Airport. SBB run an hourly tilting train service between Basel and Geneva Airport. It ran to time as could be expected.  I was able quickly to check in at a machine. Swissair even printed my boarding pass for tomorrow.
The airport was busy but I found a quiet place to wait.

I reached London only about 15 minutes late and found Heathrow practically deserted. I took the Heathrow Express to Paddington and quickly checked into the Indigo.

The Mad Bishop and Bear provided a pint of decent beer, London Pride, much better than that gnats p-- they serve on the continent.
This map shows the places Paul and I traveled to while inSwitzerland.  The local details in the Zurich area have been omitted.