Saturday 22 November - Paris - same old, same old

More coffee mugs. Hidden among the Christmas stuff in Monoprix were some nice coffee mugs of several different colours.  Guess Mary will have to find room for these when we get back home

 Although it has been a year since we were here it is gratifying to realize that what we really like about Parus has not changed. The large number of small businesses whether they be patissier, fromager, droguerie, charcutier, épicier etc. In each it is a delight to speak to the shop assistants. In Monoprix the middle aged lady cashier remarked that I was just along to carry the merchandise. While Mary was paying she gave me a delightful smile with a come-on wink. No wonder we like coming back.
We first went to the Batignoles organic market which is held Saturday mornings. As expected, the range and choice was exceptional. There were long line ups at certain stalls, obviously there are a lot of regulars. One man was selling black truffles, carefully weighing each one.

Even these old locomotives don't change. These 1960s vintage locomotives are being replaced by new multiple unit trains but there are still a few running around such as this one at Saint Lazare..

We found Aux Isles Marquises to be closed for lunch but later Madame confirmed our reservation for New Year's Eve over the phone. Lunch was at Le Miroir. Magret de Canard and cod, both very good.
We sauntered back to the apartment along rue des Abbesses, rue Lepic, Square de Clichy and rue des Dames. Nothing special to note except people were doing the things they have always done. Most restaurants had tables outside, many were tasting the Beaujolais Nouveau. No Christmas decorations yet. The rue des Dames hasn't been the same since a couple of years ago when an independent bookshop took over a place selling bric à brac - the shop window was filled by a bath with a woman lying in it with her wrists cut. There was lots of blood for a gruesome effect.

Maybe this should be captioned "Ride in Pieces"

I went through the Square des Batignoles late afternoon. The old ladies were sitting on the benches looking at the ducks while the men, and one woman, were playing pétanque or gambling.
I wandered along to the permanent Batignoles Covered Market to find some duck pâté en crout. The male server cut and wrapped my purchase but pointed to the lady clerk who took my money while making eye contact and giving me a ravishing smile. It is very satisfying to see the things we like are just the same.

Friday 21 November - Arrival in Paris

As usual, the worst part of the journey to Paris was OC Transpo #97 bus to the airport - crowded and so noisy the announcements were inaudible.
Air Canada got us to Paris via Toronto on the advertised.  The pilot was silent. We waited at the gate in Toronto for about 40 minutes beyond the departure time with no explanation whatsoever. They said the flying time was a little over 6 hours so I assume this was to ensure we didn't arrive before time.
Its a balmy day here with some sunny breaks. The grass is green and there are still some keaves on the trees.
The first order of business was lunch at the Bistrot D'Id, a local restaurant which always seems to be busy. Mary had scallops while I had magret de canard. Both were well cooked and well presented. However the Sancerre and Valençay red were both a bit rough, hardly surprising in this case.
We then had to get in supplies for our stay. Monoprix is being renovated so there is much less room. The fruit and vegetables are being sold on the street outside.
I bought a bottle of Oban scotch which is relatively cheap here. It is difficult to find at times in Ottawa.
It was also good to renew acquaintances with the lady with the infectious smile who runs Diva et Chocolats with her husband who is the patissier.  Just cutting into one  of her baguettes forestiere releases an amazing odour. You don't even have to taste it before enjoying it.

Sunday 12 October - London to Ottawa

I had plenty of time to get to Heathrow and admire the new terminal. It is very easy to get through and there is plenty of room in the circulating areas. I intended to get a cappuccino but passed a Fullers restaurant so I had smoked salmon and eggs with a pint of London Pride. A great way to finish a wonderful trip. JFB.

I was sucked into a half full Air Canada flight in London and blown out at Ottawa, some 15 minutes early after a very relaxed flight.

Saturday 11 October - Geneva to London

We used our Swiss Pass to get from Neuchatel to Geneva Airport. SBB run an hourly tilting train service between Basel and Geneva Airport. It ran to time as could be expected.  I was able quickly to check in at a machine. Swissair even printed my boarding pass for tomorrow.
The airport was busy but I found a quiet place to wait.

I reached London only about 15 minutes late and found Heathrow practically deserted. I took the Heathrow Express to Paddington and quickly checked into the Indigo.

The Mad Bishop and Bear provided a pint of decent beer, London Pride, much better than that gnats p-- they serve on the continent.
This map shows the places Paul and I traveled to while inSwitzerland.  The local details in the Zurich area have been omitted.

Friday 10 October - Les Brenets, Les Ponts de Martel and Jura

Train to Le Locle then narrow gauge, car 5, to Le Brenets. 

The train to Le Brenets at Le Locle

Arriving at Le Brenets out of the tunnel

The young driver was very friendly and opened up the shed for us to see car 3 and trailer 12. He later gave us a commemorative booklet on the line.
We walked into Les Brenets but it was all downhill so we did not go down to the lake. There are some interesting buildings including the hotel de ville which was converted from a tower built in the 1500s. It had just stopped raining but was damp and misty. Good weather for snails which were out in force. We watched a large one which moved about six inches in 10 minutes.

Les Brenets Hotel de Ville

Les Brenets

A fast moving snail

Arriving at Les Brenets

Back to Le Locle where a noisy, polluting SNCF diesel took us to La Chaux de Fonds.

An unexpected diesel at Le Locle

We were ahead of schedule so decided to go to Les Ponts de Martel. This runs through a wide green valley used for cattle, sheep and horses. The hillsides and tops are forested. The green looks like many model railways where one color of Woodland Scenics grass has been sprinkled over plaster cloth.
We had just three minutes at Les Ponts de Martel. A delightful narrow gauge electric line operated by a single car of  Italian manufacture.

Les Ponts de Martel

Trains all run in and out of La Chaux de Fonds on every hour so the transfer to the CF du Jura was easy. We went to Noirmont through green countryside which looked like parkland at times. Trees were well spaced out and the grass was cropped to a uniform height. The space below each tree was cropped as high as the cattle could reach.

Locomotive for one ballast car at Noirmont

Noirmont

There was a good cafe to have lunch and a beer in Noirmont and then a quick trip out and back to Tramelan which is the location of the Jura company workshops.
The narrow gauge railway to Glovelier is very pleasant and there are large curves to lose height in a well wooded area. The curves are not enough, however, as there is also a change of direction just above Glovelier. At Glovelier there were newly laid three rail concrete ties in one of the platform tracks, an indication that the plan to run the CF du Jura trains into Delemont will likely happen. However, the narrow gauge trains will never be able to match the performance of the standard gauge. We took a tilting train back to Neuchatel.
In Neuchatel we climbed up to the well preserved chateau which houses the Canton's parliament.

Neuchatel

Neuchatel chateau

Click here to see all pictures taken on TP Neuchatelois

Click here to see all pictures taken on CF du Jura

Thursday 9 October - Sugar beet and lunch at Baulmes

A train of three sugar beet wagons arrives at Yverdon les Bains

 On the way through Yverdon les Bains yesterday we noticed three standard gauge open cars on narrow gauge skates. The Yverdon to Ste, Croix railway was obviously moving sugar beet so we returned early to Yverdon this morning. Shortly after we arrived a train of three open cars on skates arrived behind one of the older passenger motors. The small wheels made quite a noise as it entered the yard. The crew set to work and we were able to see the complete transfer between gauges from the safety of the SBB platform and right close up. The operation was carried out on the track next to the platform and we weren't trespassing.
First, the crew uncoupled the air brake hoses between each skate and released the brakes. The motor then pushed the train so that the open cars ran up a standard gauge ramp while the skids were pushed underneath at ground level. The motor was replaced by the "crocodile" and an SBB diesel arrived with three empties. The SBB removed the loads and pushed the empties in over the train of skids. When each wheel dropped down the ramp it engaged a skid and released it to roll forward.  The following skid was held back until the next wheel dropped on to it when it, too was released by the action of the wheel. The crocodile then pulled the train of empties back and propelled it on to the motor which was coupled with a bar coupling. The air brake hoses were then attached and the empties left, after a brake test, about half an hour after arriving.

The loads are removed.

A skid, there is one for each standard gauge wheel set

The empties are pushed over the train of skids

Two skids support adjacent wheels and the air hoses have been coupled up.

The empties are being readied for departure with the motor on the far end and the crocodile at this end.  The crew are coupling the air brake hoses

To see pictures of the Yverdon Ste. Croix railway including the transfer click here
We then rode the next service train to Ste. Croix and passed the motor in a siding where it had picked up three loads and the three empties were being loaded. The climb up to Ste. Croix is spectacular with  views over lake Neuchatel.  The final part is through a steep sided valley.  We returned to Baulmes. Last time we were here we had regretted not having lunch at the hotel. This time we went straight to the hotel bar and asked if we could come back for dejeuner. The answer was yes but it was civet de chevreuil which was fine by us. This gave us about 20 minutes to look around the village which has an enormous hotel de ville and a large number of horse troughs all dating to about 1869. We were inspected by a large number of cats.

Baulmes with an enormous hotel de ville behind

Back at the restaurant there was a group of 13 retirees who meet here every other Thursday. They were having the same as us. The meal was great and we had half a bottle of the wine from this area which the proprietor proudly displayed for us. Everybody had a good time. The lady of the house came out to ask if we had enjoyed it and wondered if we wanted seconds! We were sorry to leave but we had a train to catch. We had been in Baulmes for just an hour.

Civet de chevreuil

Lunchtime crowd

The Hotel du Jura

Out third objective today was to ride the Fribourg funicular which was closed when we were here last. We took the train to Fribourg and quickly found the funicular. It is powered by filtered waste water. The tank in the top car is filled and this hauls the lower car up. It us the only funicular of this type. The speed is controlled by the Riggenbach rack.
To see all pictures of the Fribourg Funicular click here

 

Fribourg

We had a pleasant walk around the lower area, caught the funicular back and took a Fribourgois train to Ins where we took the Aare Seeland mobile train through very pleasant arable country with woods and lakes to Biel/Bienne. A tilting train brought us back to Neuchatel past the two lakes with a wonderful backdrop of mountains.
Rabbit and hare for supper.

The view of the mountains from my hotel room

Wednesday 8 October - Biere, Apples and St. Cergue

It was just finishing raining as we took the tilting train to Lausanne and a local train to Morges.
The narrow gauge line to Biere has nicely painted trains and stations. There is a feeling of prosperity about the line. The countryside is very rich agriculturally with sugar beet, vineyards, market gardening, sunflowers, corn and greenhouses. 

Biere

Apples

One of two freight locomotives on the line - at Biere

 The ride was pleasant rising gently to Biere. This is a small community but the railway serves s local army camp and firing could be heard on the range. The two locomotives on the line, similar to Rhaetian Railway were at Biere.
We took the next train back to Apples where there is a junction to L'Isle Mont La Ville. The branch train makes connections with trains to Biere and Morges.

Train to L'Isle at Apples - painted in the old colors still

L'Isle

L'Isle is a pleasant little place with a big laiterie and a river with plenty of ducks.
We returned to Apples and made the connection back to Morges. It was lunchtime and the train was full of kids making lots of noise.
At several places sugar beet was piled up at line side. There was a notice indicating that certain sections of the line would be closed next week for the sugar beet harvest. Replacement buses would be run.

Near Apples

Click here to see all pictures taken on the Biere Apples Morges Bahn

At Morges we watched the narrow gauge switcher negotiate a train of skids and then caught the train to Nyon.
The narrow gauge to St. Cergue and La Cure starts from an underground terminus close to the SBB. It has a different character to the Biere Apples line, other than it also carries a lot of noisy school kids. The country is mixed arable and pastoral but there is not the varied crops nor the vineyards. It climbs through woodland and terminates close to the border with France. There were wonderful views over Lac Leman and the mountains behind as we climbed higher and higher into the hills. At one time the line continued into France but this part was closed many years ago. Most of the kids were going to St. Cergue and there was a lady with them whom we thought was a teacher as she obviously knew them and was helping them with their homework. Turns out she was doing a survey of passengers and their tickets for the railway. She had been doing this since April. The kids must have been delighted with this assistance.

La Cure

A narrow gauge locomotive is bouncing along the transporter skips at Nyon

Transporter skids at Nyon

We came back to Lausanne for some train watching and a beer.
This evening we had a meal in the old part of Neuchatel. It is a great pedestrian area with some interesting architecture.

Neuchatel old town